License to smile with black teeth

Off to Northern Thailand. You have to go there if you want to see the “real” Thailand. What a nonsense. Always go somewhere, constant planning, permanent thinking. The cities of Chiang Mai, Pai and Mae Hong Son have been hubs of mass tourism in Thailand since many years. Beautiful places indeed. But if you want to change the tourist program, you should start to change your own thinking programs. Regardless of the location.

My two days in Pai were awesome. But even in the rural countryside, this hippie town was constructed towards alternative backpacking. Dressed differently, but still predictable and packaged. Somehow I found that was still too much of white skin and golden hair. And because I didn’t only travel so far to become a passive gourmet, I wanted to go further. Or deeper. The next bus went to Mae Hong Son. So I just bought the ticket for a four-hour bus ride.

In Mae Hong Son people want to see what has already been shown. The Karen tribe with its long-necked women are the main attraction and to some extent it reminds of an exhibition. Actually a human zoo. Where tourists with their long telephoto lenses often just want to reproduce the image that they already know from brochures without showing any respect to the people. The strangers turn into objects. They remain strangers. I didn’t want to be a part of that. So after two hours on the bus I just got off. Just like that. Somewhere. And there I was. Alone on the roadside in a small village called Soppong.

Although I had actually fled from them, I took notice of another Farang (Thai: tourist) standing on the other side of the street. As if fate wanted it: still with golden hair. We both happened to be on the way to a food place – and that’s how we got into conversation. Eckie was his name. A German banker who has been enjoying his pension with his wife in Soppong for eight years. Eckie was great. Because Eckie told me about an idyllic village near the Burmese border, where no Farang has ever been before: “Sounds good. That’s where I’m going,” I replied.

But Eckie warned me: “This is a military restricted area.” He said I was allowed I to walk the first 5 km to Mae Lana. But for the remaining 15km I’d need a special permit. So I started. I didn’t really care about the destination itself. Once in my life I just wanted to drift away and see what is going to happen. When I arrived in Mae Lana I saw a huge temple. A Buddhist retreat was taking place there. Without understanding a single word quietly I sat between these people. For an hour. Just observed. Did another walk in the village later. And came to the conclusion: “Actually I could stay here.” Just until suddenly two soldiers stopped in front of me on their motorcycles.

Fortunately, the two soldiers didn’t stop because of me, but because of the gas station in front of me. And at this point I decided to take the initiative. I pretended to be stupid and asked how to get to Ban Huai Hia Village. That was completely foolish because there was obviously only one single street and it was right in front of us. But I wanted to test their reaction. Because after all, it was forbidden to enter the restricted area. The two soldiers didn’t understand a word in English. But, they knew what I had in mind.

And suddenly one of the soldiers took away my backpack from me. For a moment I didn’t know what to think of it. But then the other soldier signalized that I could go with him. Unbelievable! I just had hoped for an exception. But now the military itself drove me into their restricted area. That was pretty cool. My backpack on one motorcycle. And me on the other. And off we left. At each small hill we had to get off the bike and push it with all our strength. Monsoon rain had turned the jungle road into a deep muddy ground in the past few days. After about an hour, they dropped me off at a military checkpoint and kept driving further. Ban Huai Hia was now in front of me.

I hesitated first. But then I passed the unguarded military spot and its barriers. Headed further down. Until I saw the village. Maybe ten huts. Not more. And there I was. Not having the slightest idea where I actually landed. In 2011 the village could not even be googled. The GPS signal did not work either. I was just there. Independently. Unconditionally. At the other end of the way I saw a boy now playing soccer. And a little later I saw the first people coming out of their houses. And then it happened.

Quite likely that for some of them I was the first white person in this military restricted zone. Nevertheless, the people in the jungle village have taken a shine on me. In a way that was as cheerful as relaxed. I wasn’t receiving any moon eyes, as it might have been the case in the Kibera slum of Nairobi. There, positive emotions exploded. Wild dances around a white exotic guy accompanied by loud laughter.

Also here people were visibly surprised when they saw me. But they didn’t laugh. Occasionally a few curious looks, but they continued with their usual business. I was not receiving a welcome. But I was accepted. And they continued to let me move freely around their village without asking any questions. Totally relieved of the need to take control over the way of life. Just as if I’ve always been there.

Some villagers had black teeth. I admit. At first, that impressed me in a negative way. And yet looking at them made my heart beat faster. I have never seen people looking and smiling like that. So free, so kind, so calm, so open and so hidden. That I also wished I could smile like that. For the first time in my life now I could see what wealth really means.

Arriving inside yourself. Being satisfied. No matter where, what and how you are right now. Being free from any thoughts and expectations. Agreeing to life as it is. Having healthy teeth is very important. No doubt about it. However, many people tend to make their luck dependent on their outside appearance. Hair, teeth, weight, clothing and money become the norm of self acceptance. Others believe they don’t deserve to be happy. Because they may have done something bad and cannot forgive themselves or their self-esteem was taken away from them. Inner wealth is not aware of shortcomings. Everyone has the right and license to be happy. At any time. All over. For a reason or completely without any reason.

Further down I saw a school. I walked down. There was also a man in front of it. A teacher. He was surprised but at the same time he smiled kindly and warmly. He didn’t understand a word of me in English. And then I couldn’t think of nothing better than pointing to my stomach. I was hungry. Oh yes, so hungry. I had completely forgotten about eating. Immediately he apologized and said unfortunately he has nothing to eat. But at the same time he offered me a chair and showed with his hands that he was going to get me something. Meanwhile I was thinking. I could not go back to Soppong today anymore, nor had I organized an overnight stay. Then spontaneously an idea came across my mind.

I would offer English and physical education to his pupils. Even though I had no experience at all on that. In return, I can sleep in that school. In less than an hour he came back. With a bowl full of rice, bamboo, mushrooms, one egg and some leaves. Simply food collected from the surroundings. I was moved to tears. Then I proposed the deal to him with my hands and feet. And then it was him who was moved to tears. So that’s how I spontaneously became an English and sports teacher somewhere deep in the jungle for the next few days. And I was allowed to work with amazing children who I can still see and feel very vividly in front of me up until today. This smile, by the way, never went away…