Lonely at night on Tierra del Fuego

Actually, my booking schedule indicated to return back to Punta Arenas after our penguin excursion at Bahía inútil by tourist van and ferry. On the next day I would have taken a bus from Punta Arenas to Argentina. Because anyway I had in mind of heading down to the “end of the world” in the Argentinian city Ushuaia. But always having the perfect plan and organization destroys the potential for authentic creativity. Self-awareness on my travels becomes more and more important to me. This you’re going to experience especially when you have to solve problems. Because I haven’t had any for a few months now, I create one.

A loud “vamos, vamos” suddenly occurred behind me. In that moment our tourist guide abruptly stopped my happiness barometer just when it was about to rise in front of these stunning king penguins. “Back in the van” was the only thing he could say. I felt like a travel prisoner. One whose short curfew has just been withdrawn. Quickly one last view. One last photo. And then the heavy black sliding door of our van slammed shut. So we were imprisoned again in our bus. Ten of us. Silence. Really? How could that be?! We have just seen the Antarctic Majesty. King penguins! And no-one is happy? How many times have I been admiring them on TV. And how beautiful they were here in wild nature.

No! This experience shouldn’t end like this. We had a 5h drive to arrive here. Allowed to stay only a few minutes. And 5h journey back home. It is already getting dark. Without further ado I lean over to the driver and ask him to let me get off at the next intersection between Y-71 street and Ruta 257. I rather walk to Argentina. All across Tierra del Fuego. “¿En serio?” the driver asks me. “¡En serio!” I replied. The other tourists were just as speechless as before. Only this time their eyes were opened wide. I got off the bus with some wondering looks behind me.

The tourist van is off. Without me. What a luck! What a freedom! This is probably how the guanacos must feel here. Now I’m alone on Tierra del Fuego. It’s winter. Quickly I put on my warmest clothes: jacket, gloves, two hoodies, scarf for my face. Tonight on Tierra del Fuego – also called the Chilean Antarctic – temperature is currently at -5°C. But with those horrible sub-Antarctic winds it feels like -15°C. And it’s pitch black. Now I have to put on my 23kg backpack. Let’s go! Towards Argentina.

Sooner than I thought, my initial enthusiastic feeling of freedom is being replaced with the high strains that I’m exposed here to. After 20 minutes I need my first break. My shoulders hurt terribly. I remember a sign now from the intersection where I got off the tourist bus before. It is only 48km to the Argentinan border (San Sebastian). During the day I took notice of plenty of trucks driving along that Ruta 257. And that was exactly the idea in my head: I’ll walk down a bit by foot, and the rest of the way I will stop cars or trucks. Stay confident! A car will come. And: I’ve already made 2km. Only 46km left.

After another 15min walk I have to rest again. The strong winds and cold temperature are totally bearable. But the 23 kg backpack is just too heavy. But I still have to move on. I got up again. Come on. And let’s do some mathematics: If I cover a distance of 5km per hour, I will be in San Sebastian, let’s see, oh yes, in about 10 hours. Actually just in time for a morning coffee. I wouldn’t call that a bad forecast. Hoping in vain I keep turning around. Hoping to see two redemptive lights appear on the horizon. But here. Everything is just pitch black. After another agonizing 15min towards Argentina, I finally sit down. 1h must have passed. And I’m completely exhausted. Now I’m realizing how threatening my situation is.

Sleep? No. Not an option. Even if I would have a sleeping bag, the risk of freezing to death in these icy winds just in the open field seems too big to me. At least I know that there are no dangerous animals here. I mean, other than guanacos, foxes, rabbits, mice and beavers. Pumas are further north. Analyzing my situation, only two options come to mind: 1.) Freak out completely! However, the resulting energy loss seemed to be of little use to me. Or 2.) Think rationally of my calculation: 5km/h means now arrival in 9h only.

And suddenly I feel a third option emerge. Once more: making the best out of my current situation. Instead of freaking out or just marching on, calmly I start staring up to the constellation of the night sky in the southern hemisphere. Let’s be real. How many people in this world could have had a better view at that moment than me? I really have to be a lucky man. And in fact, I was. Because indeed suddenly one light started to appear on the horizon. Okay. Not those two lights of an approaching truck that would save my life. But the rising light of the moon. I got up. Full of joy and confidence a loud laugh comes out of me. And I march on. How beautiful and unique it is. Full moon.

After 2 hours being alone on Tierra del Fuego, suddenly: two lights appear on the horizon! Coming towards me. Still skeptical and yet full of hope, I wait a little longer. Then I recognize him. It is. Indeed. A truck. Yes! I have to stop him. I have to stop him. I look at my watch again. Hard to believe! I didn’t notice at all that I had now been walking without any difficulties and without a single break for 45min since my last rest. Incredible to what extent confidence is able to empower you! I’m positioning myself in the middle of the road. The truck comes rushing towards me, so loud that the gravel road sounds like thunder. Wildly I starting waving my arms like crazy. Hopefully he sees me. I start jumping up and down even wilder. The truck stops. Carefully I go to the cab and try to explain in my bad Spanish that I would like to go to Argentina. With a skeptical look the truck driver inspects me. “Actually, my company forbid me to take people with me on the way. But let’s get in. You are crazy. I can drop you off at the next hotel in San Sebastian.” Where there is a light, there is a way.